Here’s a article from my pal, and Formula One blogger, Geoff Collins. Geoff lives in Switzerland, and has graciously offered to provide the occasional European travel news.
Maggiore lies between Switzerland and Italy, with the lake forming the border at the northeastern end, however, virtually all of the shoreline is in Italy. (Even in the Swiss part the local language is Italian. Most people think that French is the main language in Switzerland, but in fact it is German, with approximately 20% of the population speaking French and another 20% speaking Italian.)
The towns around Maggiore are extremely picturesque, and the road around the lake makes for an interesting drive, without being scary. Although it’s Italy, the locals drive reasonably. There’s virtually no opportunity to overtake, and this seems to have instilled an unusual calm in the bellies of the inhabitants. There are quite a few tunnels, as the area is rich in volcanic rock, and the steep sides of the lake provide impressive and dramatic backdrops in many places.
Ascona and Locarno, home of the film and rock festivals held each summer, are the two main attractions on the Swiss side. They are much loved places to live in (because everything works), but for the real Italian experience head south.
Cannobio is the first town that you’ll encounter driving along the north coast from Switzerland. It’s steeped in history, being effectively a border town, and the piazza by the lake is quite exceptional. It’s an ideal place to stop for coffee, and to watch the boats go by. A number of buildings date from the 1600s, but the cobbled streets can make walking difficult for those that have taken advantage of the shoe shops offering reasonably priced high heeled works of art. Manolo Blahniks they may not be, but they are still great quality.
We stayed at a hotel featured in one of Herbert Ypma’s ‘Hip hotel’ books, the hotel Pironi. It’s a converted monastery, complete with fading murals, and despite it’s recent rise to almost cult status, it is still inexpensive.
On Sunday mornings, Cannobio has a fine market offering delicious foods and an interesting array of leather goods. If you’re only in the area midweek, Luino is famous for it’s Wednesday markets and attracts thousands of visitors.
It’s almost rude not to dine al fresco down by the lake, and rather than recommend anywhere to eat, I’d suggest you read the menus and let your appetite make the choice.
Further round the lake we stayed at the Lido Palace in Baveno, another classic hotel, ideally situated to catch a boat out to the Borromeo Islands.
Intra, on the northern shore, connects to the southern town of Laveno by car ferry.It’s twenty minutes across the lake, and it’s a magical experience. While it’s not the same as a gondola ride, it’s still a good way to get out on the water and enjoy the views.
The real secret of Italy is exploring on your own. Of course, there are guide books to point out the highlights, but the area is so rich in natural and historic attractions that I think it’s best to just stop when you see something you like. Let it be about the journey, not the destination.
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