Standing in the center of the Place Charles de Gaulle (also called the Place de l’Étoile) at the western end of the Champs-Élyseés, the Arc de Triomphe is the largest triumphal arch in the world.  It honors those who bravely fought for France, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars, and beneath the arch is the tomb of the unknown soldier from World War I, the grave marked by the very first eternal flame.  The flame burns in memory of those who died, but were not identified, in both WWI and WWII.  The English translation of the inscription reads “Here lies a French soldier who died for his fatherland 1914-1918.”  It’s said that this flame was the inspiration for an eternal flame being placed on the grave of assassinated President John F. Kennedy.

The Arc de Triomphe stands about 165 feet tall, and measures about 148 feet wide, and is surrounded by one of the busiest roundabouts in Paris. Seriously – do not try to dodge in and out of this traffic! Not only is it dangerous, but you’ll quickly be branded as a nutcase tourist.  I stood and watched for awhile at visitors who were tempted to make a dash across lanes of traffic – but didn’t see anyone acting on that temptation.  To reach the arch in a sensible and safe fashion, just follow the signs to the underground passageway that will take you beneath the crazy roundabout to the monument.  Just take a short elevator ride back up to ground level or climb the stairs.  Whew!  You’re there – and you didn’t have to do battle with Paris traffic.

Once at the monument, spend some time walking around looking at the sculptured facade. A few highlights include a winged figure of Victory, a sculpture of Napoleon, and 30 shields (each representing a victorious battle) on the crown of the arch. On the inside and top of the arch are inscribed the names of generals and battles fought, with the names of those who died in battle underlined. Conveniently missing are some of Napoleon’s later battles.

If you’re up to it, climb the 284 steps to the top of the arch. There is no elevator. The steps are stone, and the passageway narrow and circular. It’s okay if you need to stop and catch your breath – most people did, more from a sense of vertigo or claustrophobia rather than fatigue.  Once at the top, you’ll be treated to magnificent views in all directions.

Take a look around and you’ll see 12 major arterials leading into the Place, and as you watch how they merge into the roundabout, you’ll have a real appreciation for driving in Paris. And you’ll be glad you didn’t try to make that crazy dash across the lanes of traffic.  There are fabulous photo opportunities from the top, and  since the Arc is open late, it’s a favorite spot for sunset and evening photos.

Location:  Place Charles-de-Gaulle, 8th arrondissement, Paris.

Getting there:  RER line A (train), Metro lines 1, 2, and 6 (subway) both getting off at the Charles de Gaulle-Etoile stop.  Also accessible by numerous bus lines.

Hours:  10 am – 11 pm daily.  Closing is one half hour earlier during the fall and winter months.

Admission:  There is no charge to walk around and explore the base of the arch.  Access to the top is € 9,50 for adults.  Those under 18 years of age (26 years for EU citizens) are admitted free, as are disabled visitors and their escorts, and the unemployed.  Discounts are often available.  Admission is also covered by the Paris Museum Card.

Time:  The ground level of the arch is easily seen in half an hour, allow an addition hour if you plan on going to the top.  That allows time for exploration and photography, but if you want to spend some serious photography time, you can easily spend the day there as you enjoy the light from so many different angles.

Photo credits:  All via flickr, fly72 (top photo); Anna Fox (eternal flame); Edwin Lee (inscriptions); aliciat89 (night)

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Fans of sports, snow, and the outdoors love Chamonix for the famous resort at the base of Mont Blanc in the French Alps, home to the First Winter Olympic games in 1924.  From snow sports, to natural beauty, to year-round mountaineering, to the nightlife in Chamonix, this is a place that gets under your skin and never lets you go.

What can you expect when you visit?

Snow Sports – Mont Blanc and skiing go hand-in-hand, and this is where you’ll find top-notch adrenalin junkies pushing themselves on some of the most challenging and thrilling ski slopes.  Glacier skiing is also popular, and there are plenty of options for snowboarding.  While the resort claims to have skiing for all ability levels, most of the runs are intermediate to advanced.  Popular ski areas include:  White Valley (glacier skiing), Brevent and la Flegere (easily reached from the town), Les Houches (very family friendly), Le Tour (the best beginner runs), and Grand Montets (highest altitude slopes).  James Bond fans may remember Chamonix for the movie The World is Not Enough – the ski chase scene was filmed there.

Mountain Sports – Mont Blanc has snow year round, but there are plenty of things to do besides enjoy winter snow sports.  Hiking, rock climbing, para-gliding, rafting, canyon, mountain biking, and all sorts of other mountaineering make Chamonix a popular year-round destination.  Like the skiing, most of these outdoor options are for experience mountaineers, so beginners will want to choose day hikes carefully.

Natural Beauty – Drop dead gorgeous is one way to characterize the scenery in Chamonix, and it can be viewed close up or from a distance.  Deep crevassed glaciers, majestic peaks, and alpine beauty can be viewed viewed and experience on the mountain, or, for those a little less adventurous, from the comfort of a cable car, a mountain train, or tramway.  No heavy exertion required.

Go Inside – If you need an indoor break, check out the Musee des Cristaux and its impressive collection of crystals.  It’s a combination of beauty and science, and a nice way to spend some time if you’re not quite the outdoor enthusiast.  Another museum option is the Chamonix Alpine Museum.

Shopping – There are a few options for a little retail therapy, primarily mountaineering and alpine shops.  There are a few other boutiques as well, for when you need a little time away from the mountain.

Entertainment – Chamonix restaurants are top notch, this is France after all.  Cheese lovers will be in heaven, with such delicious choices as fondue, raclette, croute savoyarde, and tartiflette.  Prices can be a bit spendy, as this is a heavily touristed area, but budgeting a splurge or two, among some more everyday meals, will be a vacation treat.

The closest major airport to Chamonix is Geneva, about an hour or so away.  You can rent a car, or opt for private or shared shuttle service.

With beauty and adrenalin this close at hand, it’s easy to see why Chamonix is a popular European getaway.

NOTE:  This post was sponsored by My Chamonix.  The opinions expressed are those of the author.

Photo credit:  SXC

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One of my favorite places in Paris is the Pantheon, a neo-Classical church in the Latin Quarter.  It was modeled after the Pantheon in Rome and topped with a dome similar to the one on Saint Paul’s Cathedral in London.  Although it was originally an abbey, it now primarily serves as a burial place for famous French heroes, leaders, artists, and writers.

This beautiful building was constructed as a result of a promise made by King Louis XV in 1744.  He was suffering from a serious and mysterious illness (later believed to be gout), and vowed that if he recovered he would build something worthy of the patron saint of Paris. He recovered, and construction of the Pantheon began in 1758 and was completed in 1789.  Like constructions projects today, the Pantheon ran into delay after delay — most related to a lack of finances.

Since the completion of its construction coincided with the start of the French Revolution, the Revolutionary government order the building changed from a church to a mausoleum where the remains of great Frenchmen could be interred.  Although it has reverted to a church twice since then, today it is once again a mausoleum.

The Pantheon is basically a cross-shaped building with a domed center.  When I walked into the Pantheon it felt austere and cavernous, and I immediate started using my library voice.”  Around the walls are murals depicting religious and revolutionary figures as well at statuary and frescoes.  I found the series of Joan of Arc particularly compelling.

In the center of the Pantheon, beneath its dome, is a pendulum standing nearly 220 feet tall.  This is Foucault’s Pendulum, named for Leon Foucault, who, in 1851, built the pendulum to conduct experiments demonstrating the rotation of the earth.  I was absolutely mesmerized by its simplicity and beauty.

After spending time appreciating all this art and history, you’ll have the option of visiting the necropolis (mausoleum) or climbing stairs to get a view of Paris from the top.

It may sound morbid, but the Pantheon’s necropolis is also a work of art.  Here are buried many famous Frenchmen and one famous Frenchwoman. Over the years there has been heated debate over who deserves and doesn’t deserve to be buried in this most sacred site, and today it takes an act of Parliament to be buried here.  A few of the notables include:  Alexandre Dumas (author of the Three Musketeers), Victor Hugo (author of Les Miserables and The Hunchback of Notre Dame), Voltaire, Rousseau, Emile Zola, Rene Descartes, Louis Braille and Pierre and Marie Curie, the latter the only woman buried here.

I much preferred to climb up, however.  All 206 steps to the colonnade beneath the dome.  Don’t let the fact that this is a guided tour turn you away from this option.  It’s really only “guided” so that you don’t get lost on the way up!  The way is narrow and steep, and at times can be a little disorienting.  Don’t worry about making the climb in record speed — go slow and rest along the way if you need to.  You likely won’t be the only one.

The view from the top of the Pantheon is spectacular – a 360 degree view of all that Paris has to offer.  This is one of the best views in the city, in my opinion.  Walk around the top and take it all in.

Location:  The Pantheon is located at Place du Pantheon in the 5th arrondissement.  The nearest metro is Cardinal Lemoine and the nearest RER is Luxembourg.

Hours:  Open 10 am – 6 pm October through March, and till 6:30 starting in April.   The last admission is 45  minutes before closing.  The upper area can only be visited April through September, and departure times very.  I’d recommend checking for a convenient tour time when you first arrive, and then work the remainder of your viewing around that time.

Admission:  8 Euros for adults and 5 Euros for ages 18-25.  Admission is FREE for everyone under 18, those under 26 who are citizens of one of the EU countries or are non-European permanent residents of France, disabled visitors and their escorts, and the unemployed.  Group rates and school rates are also available.  The Pantheon is included on the Paris Museum Pass.  If you’ll be visiting several attractions, that’s a cost efficient option.

Photo credits:  travel photo collection of Mary Jo Manzanares

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The Louvre is one of the most famous museums in the world, and most trips to Paris (at least first trips) include a visit to this famous spot located on the Right Bank of the Seine in the 1st arrondissement (map).

The building, originally a palace, is now home to some of the world’s most famous works of art, including the Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, and Aphrodite/Venus de Milo.  The museum opened to the public in 1793, and since then the collections have grown to their current number of over 380,000.  It’s not the largest art collection in the world, but most art historians agree that it is the finest.

The main buildings of the Louvre look rather fortress-like with iron gates around it.  The real treasure lie within the gates, much like it must have been when it was a fortress.  On a nice day, take a little time to walk around the inner courtyards.  You’ll occasionally find displays and events going on in the courtyard, so don’t forget to take a look around.

The central courtyard houses the Louvre Pyramid, designed by architect I.M. Pei, and serves as the main entrance to the museum.   For many travelers, this is the building most associated with the museum.   There are several entrances into the courtyard, and all will get you to the Pyramid, so if you are encountering crowds at one courtyard entrance, just walk around to another one.

The Louvre is organized into eight departments, displaying artwork up to 1848:

• Near Eastern Antiquities
• Egyptian Antiquities
• Greek, Etruscan, & Roman Antiquities
• Islamic Art
• Sculptures
• Decorative Arts
• Paintings
• Prints & Drawings

There is so much stuff to see, that tackling the Louvre can be a daunting task.  After all, you’ll be able to see works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Titian, Van Dyck, and Leonardo da Vinci.  The museum is too big to see everything in one day, so unless you have several days to dedicate to viewing it, you’ll have to come up with a plan of attack.

The two best methods for making the Louvre manageable, I think, are to either select a couple of departments that interest you, or to make a list of specific items of art that interest you.  Or, do as I did and combine the two for a combination.  You won’t see everything, but you’ll see what you want to see.

Here’s how I divided up my time at the Louvre on a one-day visit:

I first chose the departments that most interested me:  Paintings, Decorative Arts, Prints & Drawings, and Sculptures.  Next, I did some research into some of the more iconic pieces in the museum, both in those departments and well as others.  I then plotted those locations out on a museum map using the interactive floor plan. There were some overlaps, of course, and I now had a plan of attack on what to see where.

I was surprised at the amount of time I spent in the Decorative Arts section looking at some amazing furniture and impressive jewelry.  That’s one of Napoleon’s chair in the photo above.   I went rather quickly through the Paintings section as well as the Prints & Drawings section.  Although I made sure to see the iconic pieces, I quickly realized that while the collection was impressive, it was not my favorite art time period or style and I could get through it rather quickly.  I had a lot of fun in the Sculpture section, enjoying both the collection and the way it was laid out.  I spent far more time in this section that I anticipated.

With this approach, I saw everything that I wanted to see, and a little more, while still having time to ease into the day with my morning coffee and croissant, and  enjoy a my late afternoon with a leisurely glass of wine after I left the museum.

This is a very do-able approach for the average Louvre visitor.  However, if you’re a fan of art history, or if this is your favorite art era, you’ll want to allow more than a day to see everything.

Getting to the Louvre:  The Louve is easily accessible by public transportation.  Get off at the Palais-Royal-Musée stop if traveling via Métro, and the Louvre stop, quai Francois Mitterrand, if traveling by Batobus.  It is also accessible by several bus lines, including 21, 24, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95, and the Paris Open Tour bus.  There is an underground parking garage accessed on avenue du Général Lemonnier, open 7 am – 11 pm daily, if you’re driving.  But honestly, ditch the car and take public transportation.

Hours:  Monday, Thursday, Saturday & Sunday, 9 am – 6 pm; Wednesday and Friday till 10 pm.  The Louvre is closed on Tuesdays and some French holidays.

Louvre Tickets:  There are several ticket options to see the Louvre.  Tickets for the permanent collections are €9,50 (about $12.25) and provides access for everything except the temporary exhibitions in the Hall Napoléon.  It is also valid for the Delacroix Museum.  Wednesday and Friday evening tickets (6 pm – 9:45 pm) are €6 (about $7.75).  Tickets for temporary and special exhibitions in the Hall Napoléon are €11 (about $14.15).  If you want to view both the permanent and temporary collections, a combined ticket represents the best value at €14 (about $18).  The Louvre is also covered by the Paris Museum Pass.

And how cool is this:  Admission is free for the unemployed, minimum wage-earners, registered disabled (identity card required), those under 18 years of age, and teaches of art history, archaeology, and applied or plastic arts.

I recommend buying advance tickets, or the Paris Museum Pass, as doing so will allow you to bypass the lines using the Passage Richelieu, Porte des Lions, and Galerie du Carrousel entrances.  Although the line wasn’t terribly long the day I visited, I still estimate that I was able to save about 45 minutes of time by heading to the front of the queue.

Despite this not being my favorite art genre, I loved the Louvre.  It was a wonderful trip through history, and one that I’d recommend.

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I’ve spent some time in the south over the last several months, and it’s a whole lot different that the Pacific Northwest.  A friend who lives there raved about where she lives, asking me if I didn’t think that living there would be wonderful.  So I thought about it.  Could I live in the South?

If we’re talking about the southern United States, then the answer is definitely no.  But since I’ve been traveling around Europe this summer, I have thought about what it would be like to live over here.

First of all, I’m not cut out to be a global nomad.  I want a home, a place to put roots, a place to build friendships and to come home to.  I’m not opposed to multiple homes (when I win the lottery or sell the Great American Novel), but as much as I love to travel, for me home is where the heart is.

Everyone knows that I love Italy, but there are other places that could make my list of places to live.  What I look for is a combination of access to a large city (or cities), yet a smaller town feel.  Somewhere I could enjoy the greatness of shopping, art, theater, and the busyness of a large metropolis, yet still settle in to enjoy the charm, thoughtfulness of living, and slower pace of a smaller village.

France has much to offer, and much like Italy it offers a wonderful combination of cities large and small, wonderful food, art, shopping and culture.  But Paris is definitely out.  Love the city, love to visit there, love to go to the museums and shop and eat, but then I’d have to leave or go crazy.

The area of Luberon offers some nice choices.  It has slightly more moderate weather than in the north, band I loved the book A Year in Provence, so it just might be a good fit..  OK, so maybe the book romances moving there a bit, but it is an area with a combination of large cities to make you feel connected to the world as well as picturesque little towns that ooze in history and culture.  Add in great food, wine, fields of lavender, and a sense of adventure, and I could create a wonderful home away from home.  Mmmmmm, I can almost taste the flavors and smell the aromas now.

And who am I kidding, if I lived there maybe I’d catch a celeb or two in the area for the Cannes Film Festival!

Finding a South of France property wouldn’t be easy, the best things in life never are, but what a wonderful place for my home away from home.  Want to come visit?  We could wander, relax, and enjoy some of the very best things in life.

Photo credit:  SXC (Arles); (lavender)

NOTE:  This post was sponsored by Erna Low Property; the opinions expressed herein are solely those of the author..

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If the thought of a beautiful bag, a decadent pair of heels, or the luxurious feel of the fabric of a finely crafted suit make you swoon, then an afternoon on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées in Paris may be your definition of heaven.

The  Champs-Élysées is not only one of the most recognized street names in Paris, but in the entire world, and is lined with luxury and specialty shops, theaters, cafes and restaurants.  The street itself is a little over a mile and a quarter long, running from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe in the 9th arrondissement.

The name translates to “Elysian Fields” a reference to the “place of the blessed” in Greek mythology.  With the prices you’ll see at most of these shops and cafes, you’ll need to be blessed, indeed, to make this your prime shopping district.

It’s easy to get caught up in its reputation as the ultimate shopping location, but originally, in the de Medici era, the area was just a field with an associated garden market.  Later, it was the location of two famous marches to celebrate the 1944 liberation of France, one march by the French and the other by American troops.   Even today, the Champs-Élysées tips it hat to history as the location of the annual Bastille Day parade.  And cyclists will know it as the end of the Tour de France.

The Champs-Élysées is always full of people, day or night, attracting crowds for shopping, the theater, and the cafes and restaurants.  Offices are located above the shops, so there are lots of working people, in addition to the tourists.

Shops range from the exclusive to large chains, and include favorites like Nike Paris, Adidas (its largest store in the world), Virgin Megastore, Louis Vuitton (its largest store in the world also), and the fun Drugstore Publicis, which, despite its name, has so many upscale products that it seems a misnomer to call it a “drug” store.

This is really not a street for strolling, rather the rapidly moving crowds pull you along with them.  Step out of the main path to window shop, splurge on a fabulous purchase at one of the shops, or stop for lunch at one of the cafes.  This is an expensive neighborhood, but if you think of it as a full entertainment experience, you’ll more than get your money’s worth.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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Bordeaux is city in the southwest part of France and boasts a million residents and probably just as many great bottles of wine.  Bordeaux is one of the world’s major wine producers, dating back to the 8th century, and although the historic part of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I think of the vines.

I thought that Bordeaux wines were always red, but it turns out that’s not the case.  Most of the wine produced there is red, (ranging from every day table wine to some pretty prestigious bottles), but there are also white, rosé and sparkling wines produced.

I don’t order Bordeaux when I’m out for dinner, probably because I don’t speak French, and it can be a little intimidating to order a bottle of something that you can’t pronounce correctly.  That was true when I visited Paris, and true here at home.  (Note to self:  learn French, or at least the important wine-related phrases!)  Often, restaurant prices for Bordeaux can be a little off the chart as well, so it’s easy to pass it on by for something else, and then Bordeaux just sort of fades to the back of the mind.

And that’s a real shame!  Because, as I’ve found out recently, there’s a whole great big world of Bordeaux to enjoy, so it’s likely that’s there’s a choice at a price point that fits your budget.

I had the opportunity to try a couple of Bordeaux wines, one red and one white, and although I don’t fancy myself a wine snob or connoisseur, I know what I like, and I love to share the bottles that I like with others.

First on the tasting list was a white, a bottle of Clarendelle (2006).   This blend in primarily Sauvignon and Semillon, and I chilled it for Christmas dinner.  I don’t usually prefer white wine, but the first sip of this Clarendelle was a big surprise.  It was fresh, with a bit of a fruit edge. but was neither too fruity nor too sweet.  It accompanied the turkey dinner quite nicely, although a lighter seafood dish may have been a better pairing, and it brought out nice flavors with the meat and vegetables.  Depending on where you live (translation:  and how high taxes are on alcohol), this bottle will probably cost between $16-22.a

The second bottle I tasted was a red, a Chateau Larose Trintaudon 2004 Haut Medoc.  Pouring it into my glass, I was seduced by its dark red color and scents of berry.  My tongue danced with delight at the rich, but not overwhelming, flavors of earthy fruit and smoke.  I shared this bottle with a friend, and we sipped it along with some cheese and rosemary crackers.  It tasted okay with a Brie, but it was a real WOW with the soft garlic-chive spread.  This wine is flavorful enough that I think it would be delicious with a grilled steak, but not so over-powering that it can’t be enjoyed on its own.  Depending on where you live, this bottle should run you around $20-25.

These bottles have made me a Bordeaux fan, and I’m anxious to look for what other Bordeaux choices are offered in my neighborhood.

NOTE:  These two bottles of wine were sent to me by some very nice people involved with Bordeaux wine.  They’d love for you to sample something from their diverse collections of wines.  As their slogan says, “Life Goes Better with Bordeaux.”  I’d agree.

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During the holiday season it seems like I watch lots of movies.  Whether it’s catching up on television, renting videos, or indulging in pay-per-view, it’s an enjoyable way to spend some lazy winter days.  Assuming you like the movie, of course.

I like a variety of movies, but the ones at the top of my list are those that give me a sense of time and place.  Movies that make me want to be where the movie is, and sometimes even when the movie takes place.

Earlier this week I watched Julie & Julia, a great movie, and one that made me long for a return trip to Paris soon.

Julie & Julia was written and directed by Nora Ephron, and stars Meryl Streep as the famous chef Julia Child and Amy Adams as Julie Powell, a young, and somewhat depressed, New Yorker writer.  The movie is based on two true stories – the early years Julia Child’s career as documented in her autobiography My Life in France, written with Alex Prudhomme, and a memoir written by Julie Powell documenting her experiences, and blogging about, her efforts as she devoted one year to cooking all 524 recipes found in Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

The movie has the stories of Julia and Julie interwoven, moving back and forth between Paris circa 1949 and New York post 9-11.

In Paris:  Julia and Paul Child set up residence in Paris, and although she goes through some adaptation, it’s clear that she falls in love with the city.  (I know how she must have  felt.  I experienced an immediate emotion connection with Paris the minute I came out of the Metro.)  One of the things that Julia falls in love with is French cuisine, she loves to eat, and finding herself bored with nothing to do, she decides to sign up for a cooking class.  The first cooking class she attends is far too simple, with skills like how to boil an egg, so she goes looking for something a little more challenging –  and ends up in a cooking school for serious chefs (meaning men).  Although initially behind the curve a bit, Julia throws herself into cooking and it becomes the second passion of her life.  Julia teams up with a couple of other cooks in an effort to write a cookbook, and the very long task of bring it to fruition is fraught with problems, disappointments, and adversity.  Success finally comes as a result of single-minded focus and determination, and a career is launched.

In New York:  Julie and Eric Powell set up residence in a 900 square foot apartment in Queens, while she tries to settle into a cubicle job handling phone calls about post 9-11 issues.  She is clearly depressed by her job, which she hates, and finds that her writing career is going nowhere.  She finds solace in cooking, and over dinner one evening, she decides to pour her writing efforts into a blog – about cooking.  After going through a variety of ideas, she decides to blog about how she will cook all of Julia Child’s recipes over the course of a year.  She calls it the Julie/Julia Project.  Julie’s blog chronicles the highs and lows of cooking new dishes, her frustrations with blogging (she has no comments), and her determination to once and for all finish something. (Sound familiar bloggers?)  Julie comes close to abandoning the project a few times, but through determination and perseverance she completes the project, gathering a little fame along the way.

The movie showcased each woman’s determination to succeed, albeit in different ways.  They each had a calling, in the beginning unrecognized, but by following their passions and heart, work became pleasure, which in turn became success.  Both women set a great example of do what you love and the money will follow.

As Julia Child walked the streets of Paris, sat at cafes, and dined at restaurants, I wanted to be there with her.  Oh sure, who wouldn’t want to hang out with Julia Child, but more than that, I wanted to wander the streets of Paris.  I wanted to sit and have a cafe au lait, or a glass of wine, and watch the world go by.  I wanted to savor the sounds and taste of Paris, to shop at the small markets, and to find the best fromagerie and patisserie.  And to eat well, even if I’ll never cook like Julia Child.

Not only that,, this film is the first major motion picture that is based, at least in part, on a blog.

Photo credit: Amazon (DVD); Mary Jo Manzanares

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Since I’m a big museum buff, I knew that I’d be spending a lot of time visiting museums while I was in Paris.  As part of my pre-departure research, I prepared a pretty long list of museums that I’d like to visit, and while I knew that I would only be able to see a fraction of those on the list, I quickly realized that admission fees were going to add up right quick.

Further research turned up the Paris Museum Pass, a multi-day, multi-admission pass, that would save both time and money.

Museum d'Orsay in Paris has a great collection of Impressionist Paintings

Since time was at a premium while I was there, the saving time part grabbed my attention.  Museums in Paris are notorious for long lines, and the ability to bypass the line for immediate admission meant the potential for a big time saver.  With only five days, I knew that I couldn’t take advantage of the many FREE or reduced admission days, and I knew that I needed to make every half hour count!

I calculated out the cost of the pass and balanced it against admissions to the museums that I knew I would see, and I came out slightly ahead financially.  When I factored in the skipping of the lines and the museums on the maybe list, it cemented the deal.

The pass is activated on your first museum visit, so you can buy it in advance and have it ready to go.  I picked mine up at the Louvre, the first museum that I visited.  The process to buy the pass took about half an hour, so I’d recommend buying in advance.  Still, we passed the time chatting with some nice folks there, got some restaurant and shopping suggestions, and it was just fine,

How did the pass work out for me?

With a 4-day pass, I visited eight museums:  Arc de Triomphe (a monument more than a museum),  Centre Pompidou, Conciergerie, Louvre, Museum d’Orsay, Pantheon, Rodin Museum, and Sainte-Chapelle.

The pass can be purchased for 2, 4, or 6 days, and it currently is selling for 32, 48, and 64 respectively.   The Paris Museum Pass can be purchased online, at any Paris Tourist Office, or at any of the museums or monuments that are covered by it,

Based on the exchange rate at the time, I saved about $16 in admission fees.  Additionally, my skipping the lines, I saved between 3-4 hours of time.  So this was a big WIN for me.

Based on my experiences, here are some recommendations that I’d make:

• Calculate out what you want to see and how much it will cost to buy individual admission tickets.
• Check to see if the museums you want to see are covered by the pass.  The Paris Museum Pass covers museums and monuments, so check the list to see what’s covered.
• Check to see if you can take advantage of any free museum days or reduced costs.  Most museums are FREE admission for those under 16, and offer a reduced admission for those ages 16-25.  Most also offer at least one day a month where admission is FREE.
• You can opt for a shorter pass, thereby saving money, if you’re willing to cram all your museum visits into a few days.  This may work well for adults, but might not be a good choice if you’re traveling with kids, so think about the pace you want for your trip.
• Temporary exhibits at museums are usually excluded, so if there’s one you want to see, be prepared for an additional charge.
• The pass covers monuments and museums in Paris, as well as the surrounding area.

I think my favorite stop was the Museum d’Orsay, followed very closed by the Rodin Museum.  There are still many, many that I didn’t see, so next time I’m back in Paris, I’ll be buying the Paris Museum Pass once again.

Photo credit: Mary Jo Manzanares

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When I headed off to Paris a couple months ago, it was a bit of a last minute trip.  I had been wanting to make the trip for quite some time, but had to make some changes to the actual travel dates at the last minute.  You can make things work at the last minute, so if you find yourself in this position, don’t abandon your plans, just dig in and make it work.

When I set my travel dates, I set them around my schedule, and didn’t pay attention to what was going on in Paris.  It turned out that the Rugby World Cup was being held during the time I planned to be there.  The downside of that was that all the moderately priced hotels were booked up.  In fact, I couldn’t find hotel availability at all, even stretching the budget to $500 night.

While my traveling companion would have been perfectly happy to stay at a local American chain, and that was the back up plan, I was determined to find something oozing with French charm and ambience.

Undaunted by the seemingly Herculean task in front of me, I checked out all the hotel websites that had anything in Paris.  I sent off lots of emails and reservations requests.  The answers were all the same — no availability for the time I was going to be there.

Next I emailed friends and bloggers who were in Europe, or those who had recently visited France, asking for suggestions and ideas.  I got a ton of responses and helpful suggestions, but I still didn’t find any place with availability.  Until one friend suggested trying to find an apartment.

Hmmmm!  I hadn’t thought of that.  What a great idea!  With less than 48 hours before I had to get on an airplane, it was an idea that needed to be acted upon quickly.

There are a number of companies that handle apartment rentals in France.  If I had thoroughly checked them out, I would be happy to list and link to them here.  But I didn’t do any due diligence (something that I never recommending skipping), instead trusting my bank of travel karma to make it all work out.

I found a listing for a studio apartment in the 4th arrondissement, close to the Bastille métro, that sounded promising and affordable.  There were photos, and although I tend not to trust these type of photos, I wasn’t in a position to be too choosy.  It was conveniently located in a nice neighborhood, so it had to be full of the charm and ambience that I was looking for.

I placed the call, spoke to Michael, a very nice guy in New York, and with hours to spare we handled the business end of things.  Before you could say bon voyage I was on a plane en route to Paris.

Upon arrival at Charles de Gaulle airport, I took the train into the city, made one transfer, and found myself coming out of the station for my first view of Paris.

The apartment was a very short walk from the métro but because of my bumbling about it took me about half an hour to walk the block and a half.  I chalked it up to flying all night, little sleep, and my lack of French language along with a healthy dose of excitement about FINALLY getting to Paris.

The entrance was through a large green double door that opened into a terrace with a couple of small tables and chairs.  I’m sure that during the warmer weather this is a very popular place to sit and have morning coffee or a glass of wine.

The apartment itself was just as described, with a lovely salon, a remarkably spacious and efficient bathroom (with shower), and a small kitchen (which I only used for opening wine and keeping water and cheese in the refrigerator).

Over the week that I was there, the neighborhood became familiar and comfortable.  I felt safe walking around  during the day and in the wee hours as well.  I found my favorite cafe for my morning coffee and croissant, a frommagerie and wine shop, and some local restaurants.  It was a perfect location for my days of exploration, whether by train or foot.  It was everything that I had hoped for more.

While I certainly don’t recommend that you wait till the last minute to plan a trip, don’t let the fact that it’s a last minute opportunity get in the way.  There are ways to make nearly everything work.

I didn’t stay in the hotel room that I had originally planned.  But what worked out was even better.  For a very short time I could feel like a resident of Paris.

NOTE: For anyone interested in specific information about the apartment, contact me directly.  I’ll be happy to share specifics and contact information.

***UPDATE***

If you are interested in information about this apartment rental, you can email Michael at paris@idiom.tv.

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