Fast food can be good food, and Karne Garibaldi (website is in Spanish) in Guadalajara, Mexico proves the point over and over again.  Whenever I’m in Guadalajara, you can bank on my having at least one meal at this casual restaurant whose claim to fame is the Guinness Book of Records (1996) entry for the fastest service.  They set the record at 13 1/2 seconds for a table of six.

The service is so fast that before you’re even seated a group of waiters will arrive at your table bringing you appetizers to get started.  It’s a plate for of fresh, warm tortillas, served along with delicious grilled onions, refried beans with bits of corn in it (this Karne Garibaldi specialty is available for purchase by the can), and other condiments (chopped green onions, radishes) and salsa.  This is what constitutes starters in an authentic Mexican restaurant.  Chips and guacamole are available, but must be ordered separately, and fair warning, guacamole is not always available.  Don’t worry, though, you’ll be just fine without it.

Once seated, waiters are there to take your order immediately.  By default they are prepared to get you in and out in a hurry, but they are more than accommodating if you ask them to slow down the pace.  If you want time to have an ice cold beer and chat, speak up and ask for a little more time.  I’d recommend starting with a cold Negro Modelo (ask for a frosted mug) first thing, and then placing your food order when the beer arrives.

What should you order?  Well first off, if you have an Americanized version of what Mexican food is like, Karne Garibaldi will force you to forget those preconceptions.  Ordering is basically all about size, as one item dominates the menu – the regional specialty, carne en jugo (beef in juice).  Basically, this is like a tasty beef stew, cooked in its own broth and flavored with bacon, beans, tomatoes, and spices.  Despite what you may read elsewhere, there are a few other items on the menu.  But I’ve never ordered them.  The reason I go here is for the carne en jugo.  Just place an order for the size your prefer, ranging from extra small to extra large, and then get ready to dig in — it’ll be at your table practically before the words have left your mouth.

When your meal arrives there are a couple of ways to eat it.  Tourists (and there are usually not a lot in the restaurant) tend to scoop the meat out of the juice, drop it into a tortilla, add a few condiments and eat it like a taco.  I ate it that way the first few times because I didn’t really know what else to do.  After going to dinner there with some local friends, I’d like to think that I’ve learned better, and now eat it like a local.  Locals eat is as a soup or stew, adding a variety of condiments to the meat and broth, including the radishes, chopped onions and salsa.  Then tightly roll up a tortilla in one hand, and eat it as you would a piece of bread, using a spoon to enjoy every bite of the carne en jugo.  You can also add the grilled bulb onions, although they are sweet and yummy eaten plain.

Just as fast food can be good food, so can fast service be good service.  The waitstaff is not just fast, but also attentive.  An empty mug will get a generate a request if you’d like another.  When the tortillas, refried beans, or any of the condiments  run low, they’ll be replenished without your needing to ask.  The service is seamless and unobtrusive, but I like chatting with the servers and asking them about favorite things to do in their city.  Since there are times when I’m there on a weekly basis, they start to get to know me after awhile.  Between my sketchy Spanish language skills and their desire to practice English we seem to figure everything out.

My recommended order would be a medium size carne en jugo, with a couple beers.  The price for that will vary based on the exchange rate, but typically will come in around $6-7  which includes a generous tip. I always have leftovers, and they are extremely gracious about packing them up and including all the extras, usually replenished.  The tortillas can be a little tough the next day, but everything else is just as delicious.

I frequent the location across the street from Plaza del Sol (Mariano Otero 3019, Zona Plaza del Sol),although there are other locations around the area.  Hours are 11 am – 11 pm every day but Sunday, when it closes at 6 pm.  Credit cards are accepted.  Casual dress is okay, but be aware that casual by Guadalajara standards is more dressed up than by US standards.

Karne Garibaldi is one of my favorite Guadalajara restaurants.  And it’s not a tourist restaurant, despite the whole Guinness record thing.  The majority of patrons are locals, and although the staff does not speak much English, they do a great job of communicating.  The language difference is not a problem, but remember that you are in Mexico and it’s expected that people will speak Spanish! The delicious flavors of your meal will make conversation easy.

It’s been awhile since I’ve been back to Guadalajara, and I’m craving some carne en jugo.  I’ve yet to find anywhere here at home where they serve it, but it sure would be nice to get my fix a little closer to home.

Photo credits:  personal collection

Guadalajara is my favorite city in Mexico.  It is the capital city of Jalisco, and is the second largest city in the country behind Mexico City.  Guadalajara is a wonderful combination of cosmopolitan city and a historic center, blending the old with the new, the modern with the traditional, and the hip with the historic.  It is considered the Mexican equivalent of our Silicon Valley, with strong electronics and high tech industries.

Guadalajara Cathedral

Contrast Guadalajara’s very modern business core with one of the oldest and most beautiful structures in the city – the Guadalajara Cathedral, a minor basilica that is part of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Guadalajara.  Located in the downtown Centro Histórico (Avenue 16 de Septiembre, Hidalgo y Morelos, map), the neo-Gothic towers of the Cathedral dominate the skyline.

The Cathedral was originally built during the 16-17th century, and over the years parts of it have been destroyed by fire, earthquake, and the ravages of time.  Painstaking work at repairs and rebuilding have kept the structure as close to original as possible.

Altar of Guadalajara Cathedral

Walking into the cathedral is like taking a big step back in time.  The main altar is made of marble and silver, but you’ll also find ten other altars around the side of the cathedral.  Behind the main altar are sufficient chairs to seat the council of Cardinals, should they ever all show up for Mass.  The cathedral has beautiful stained glass (imported from France, and reminiscent of the stained glass windows of Notre Dame), many religious artifacts and pieces of art, a mural by Mexican artist Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, and relics of St. Innocent (among others).  This is also home to the largest organ in the country.

Please remember to wear respectful clothing when visiting the Cathedral as it is an active place of worship.

Surrounding the cathedral are spacious plazas perfect for strolling, getting a bite to eat, people watching, or enjoying the many artisans that set up shop here.  Don’t hurry through!  Slow down your pace, and enjoy the culture and history of Guadalajara.

Photo credit:  personal collection

This post mentions: Catedral de Guadalajara, Zona Centro, Guadalajara, Jalisco.

I’m not a big fan of Halloween.  It’s not for any particular religious or cultural reason, I just don’t like dressing up in costumes and begging for candy.  OK, as adults that’s not exactly how we celebrate Halloween, but I don’t particularly care for the adult version of the holiday either.

Dia de Muertos altar

But, this is a great time to be in Mexico, as they prepare for the Dia de Muertos, or Day of the Dead celebration, an extended holiday time that covers Young Souls Day (October 31st), All Saints Day (November 1st) and All Souls Day (November 2nd).

The celebration of the holiday varies within the country, but the observation of the Day of the Dead goes back to pre-Hispanic Mexico – back to the time of the Aztecs, Mayans, and other indigenous peoples of Mexico.

The belief behind the celebration centers on the concept that the souls of the deceased return annual to visit living relatives, and to eat and drink with them.  It would be appropriate, then, to make sure their return was celebrated with feasts and festivals that honored the departed loves ones.  It’s a way of maintaining the tradition and belief that our loved ones don’t every truly die, but are with us, even if only in spirit, forever.

In keeping with the tradition that our loved ones come back once a year, families celebrate Dia de Muertos by creating altars that honor and welcome their departed loved ones.  They are usually decorated with marigolds, candles,  and photographs of the deceased, and have offering of their favorite foods, beverages, and small trinkets representing the interests of the deceased.  Calabaza en Tacha, candied pumpkin bade with cinnamon and brown sugar, is often placed on the altars as well.  Other symbols you’ll see during the celebration include skulls, often laid on altars, and dancing skeletons.

Sugar Skulls for Dia de Muertos

Children exchange decorated sugar skulls that are created to represent the deceased, and these can often be quite elaborate works of art, not merely candy.  The sugar skulls are gifts for the young souls of deceased children, who return in the late afternoon of October 31st, Young Souls Day.

Pan de Muertos, or Bread of the Dead, is another tradition.   Families make the special bread, then gather to remember their loved ones, sharing the bread with one another as a sign of love and the strong ties of family.

If you’re traveling in Mexico during this time of year, you’ll likely see altars all over the place.  At hotels, in a corner of a restaurant, in many other public placs, as well as in private homes.    You’ll also find many cities across the United States that have Dia de Muertos celebrations.  These are often found in cities with a large Hispanic community.

Rich in history and tradition, Day of the Dead observances are festive, happy times.  If you are fortunate enough to be invited to a celebration, consider it a very high honor.  Go, enjoy, and have a good time, but don’t forget that in midst of the merriment, reverence in still important.

Photo credit: San Jose Library @flickr (altar); Willow&Monk @flickr (sugar skulls)