Fontana di Trevi, better known to most of us as Trevi Fountain, is  Rome’s most spectacular and popular fountain.  In a city with so many impressive fountains, that’s a pretty big claim.

The Baroque-style  fountain, designed by architect Nicola Salvi and completed in 1762, is located in a busy section of the city, not far from the popular Via del Corso.  To get to the fountain you walk down narrow streets, some of which seem more like alleys than streets, to the historic center of Rome.  There’s signage to help you find the way, and asking for directions will help get you pointed in the right direction, but if you find the noise gets louder and louder it means you’re getting close.

When I first stepped into the Piazza di Trevi, its intricate sculptures, cascading water, and faded stones wowed me.  Against the backdrop of the fountain is a large sculpture of Oceanus in the center, along with chariot in the shape of a shell drawn by seahorses.  Additional sculptures flank each side of Oceanus, resting in the niches.  In the water are additional sculptures representing sea creatures, both real and mythological.  At about 85 feet high and 65 feet wide, Trevi Fountain is a tribute to the power and lushness of the sea, both in its design and in the roaring water spilling over the rocks.

I spent some time at Trevi Fountain during the afternoon as well as in the evening.  It was always abuzz with people, albeit primarily tourists, and the constant clicking of cameras could be a bit distracting.  But still, there was a certain energy about it as visitors posed, as did I, throwing a coin into the fountain.

There are a couple of variations on the coin throwing story, all rooted in tradition with varying interpretation.  The most popular interpretation is that throwing a coin over your shoulder into the water of the fountain will ensure a return visit to Rome.  A current version of this tradition is throwing three coins with the right hand over the left shoulder.  This tradition of three coins probably comes from the movie Three Coins in the Fountain.  (In the movie, however, it was three different women each throwing one coin into the fountain.) Still another version of the tradition is that throwing two coins will ensure a marriage coming soon, and three coins means a divorce.

I opted for one coin, throwing it into the fountain with my right hand over my left shoulder – why tempt fate, after all.  It’s seems to have worked as I’ve been back several times since that first visit.

• In Three Coins in the Fountain (1954), three American roommates working in Italy wish for the man of their dreams after throwing coins into Trevi Fountain.
• In La Dolce Vita (1961), you see Anita Ekberg jumping into the fountain (fully clothed), inviting Marcello Mastroianni to join her.
• In the Lizzie McGuire Movie (2003), Hillary Duff graduates from middle school and vacations in Italy.

Despite the crowds, the noise, and the tendency to dismiss visiting Trevi Fountain as too touristy, I loved its glow in the evening.  It was most special during that golden hour, when day turns to night in a wash of color, and the lights on the fountain start coming on.  It was beautiful and romantic, and I didn’t care if there were hundreds of other people around thinking that very same thing.

Location: Piazza di Trevi.  The narrow streets, few of which are straight or set up on a grid, can be confusing.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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Today is travel planning day!  Summer travel looms, and for the first time in many summers we have no plans firmed up.  Air fare has been outrageously expensive, and although I have been tracking it since last fall, there has been no meaningful movement on it up and down.  I expected fares to be high for peak summer travel, but these price points are shocking even me!  But we can’t put it off any longer, and so today is travel planning for our Portugal and Italy holidays.

First up, buying airline tickets.  They’re nearly as much as a mortgage payment, but it’s time to bite the bullet and lock things in.  They’re not going to get any cheaper.

Our first stop on our summer travels is Lisbon, Portugal.  We’ll be there for a week,  for a week.  We’ll be looking for a place to stay, hopefully near the beach, and looking at areas where we want to explore.  It’s a first visit for all three of us.

Next it’s off to Italy for two more weeks.  We’ll spend the bulk of the time in a small town in Tuscany where, I swear, there are more people than sheep.  But we do have three or four unaccounted days to check out another area of the country.  The discussion about where to explore will happen today over lunch.  Keeping in mind that we’d like to explore a new area, we like having a home base and doing day trips from there, and that we’ll be en route from Lisbon to Tuscany, staying north of Rome probably makes the most sense.

Current ideas include:

• Cinque Terra – Not exactly a new spot, but it’s lovely and there are always a few new spots to explore.  There will be lots of people visiting during the summer, but that will balance out with the quiet of the Tuscan countryside.
• Bologna – This busy, industrialized university town also offers a lot of culture (in 2000 it was Europe’s capital of culture).  Interesting history, architecture, and music.  And let’s not forget the food – this is home to the bolognese sauce – and the wine.
• Venice – I’ve never been there, and a few days might be a great way to get a little taste of it.  I want to take a gondola ride.  At sunset.  And I don’t care if anyone thinks it’s touristy.
• Milan – Another big city that we’ve never spent much time in.  I could avoid the temptation of shopping and focus instead on art, architecture, and historical sites.  But do we really want to be in a busy city?
• Pisa – Sure, the tower may be the only game in town, but it’s an easy location for day trips to Lucca and Livorno.
• Genoa – Being near the water might be nice, and we could have a few Shakespeare moments, but we’re not sure what else this city and area have to offer.  But, none of us have been there. . . yet.
• Florence – We all love Florence – the art, architecture, history, just the feel of the city makes us a little giddy.  We usually do Florence as a day trip, but maybe this is the year to stay in the city and enjoy a little of the nightlife as well.  That’s a photo of the top of the Duomo above.
• Rome – Usually the hub for our arrival and/departure into the country, Rome offers so much to see and do that we’ve yet to even scratch the surface of the city.  It’s busy, noisy, crowded, and in summer will be stifling in the heat.  But it’s Rome.  The eternal city.  And there’s always something new to discover.

Is there anywhere else that should be on our consideration list?  What would be your favorite area of Italy to getaway for a few days?

Photo credit:  personal collection

NOTE:  This post is sponsored by Page & Moy; the travel planning and opinions expressed are those of the author.

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Do you remember the first time you fell in love?  Was it love at first sight, or was it the kind of love that grows over time?  Did you go through the ups and downs that all relationships seem to experience, or has it been nothing but smooth sailing?  Do you still see the goodness behind the facade, or has your love faded over the years?  When you see your love, whether it’s every single day or with extended absences, does it still make you smile, perhaps your heart skips a beat?  And when you finally must part, do you start planning and counting the days until you are reunited once again?

That’s how I feel about Italy.

I forged a relationship with Italy rather late in life.  I first knew her through family and friends who teased me with talk about her excitement, diversity, and simmering sensuality.  I tried to dismiss her lure and be strong.  I dabbled with other pseudo-loves, trying to find meaning in my relationships with Manhattan and Cartagena.  With Miami Beach and San Francisco.  While thrilling for awhile, these relationships eventually ended, not out of any sense of betrayal, but because the love waned, leaving a big hole in my heart.   Even Paris, with all her chic in-your-face sexiness, could only fill the void temporarily before she, too, was relegated to the status of a fond former love,

And then I met Italy.

I had to travel far to meet her.  An early morning flight across the country followed by an overnight flight to Rome.  With bleary eyes, and barely awake, through a haze of sleepiness, I dallied with the Eternal City.  I fell in love the very first moment that I came up from the metro station and saw the Coliseum in front of me.  I knew immediately that Rome and I were destined to go the distance in our relationship.

But it was not to be.

I couldn’t commit to Rome.  I was unwilling to be exclusive, and so allowed myself to be seduced by Capri and the Amalfi Coast, by the beauty of Lake Maggiore and Montepulciano, and by the hill towns of Umbria.  There were so many flings, and it’s embarrassing to admit that my head was turned by the murmured sweet nothings of cities and towns across Italy.  I was captivated by the vibrant wisteria of Sorrento, I was enchanted with the playfulness of the sunflowers in Tuscany, and I was swept up by the  passion of Sicily.  My love overflowed with every sip of Brunello, every scoop of gelato, every mouthful of pasta.

I fell hard.  I was, at last, in love.  And I was ready to commit.

But loving Italy is not always easy.  She’s self absorbed, requiring you to adjust to her pace rather than she to yours.  You’ll have to turn a blind eye to her grittiness, and it is there, and focus on her gentle and nurturing soul.   You must learn to embrace her quirkiness, her inconsistency, her fickleness, and even her seeming disinterest.   You must be prepared to stand by her through the tough times, knowing that she will eventually return to her true self.

There are many reasons to love Italy, and if you are willing to commit to a lifelong relationship, you’ll find that she just might love you back.  Loving Italy may not always be easy, but it’s always exciting.

Happy Valentine’s Day, my love, I’m counting the days till we are together once again.

This post is part of the monthly theme project from the Travel Blog Mob, a group of independent travel bloggers who write around a selected topic that will entertain our readers.  February’s topic:  Creative Romance.

Here’s what the rest of the mob has to say:

• Wandering Educators:  Ten Tips for Creative Romance During Family Travel
• The Vacation Gals: Romantic Getaway Vacation in Napa Valley
• Ciao Bambino: Kid-Friendly Romantic Getaways
• BootsnAll: Romantic Travel Ideas That Won’t Leave Your Budget Heartbroken

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For most people, a trip to Rome is going to include a trip to Vatican City, and a stop to see the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s (Square and Basilica).  It may seem like an easy stop on your travels, but it can be daunting.  A little research and advance planning can help you get the most out of the time you have.

One of the best references that I found, both for its breadth and depth of knowledge as well as its entertainment value, is Secrets of the Vatican Collection, the first ever complete documentary on the Vatican.

The 5-disc DVD documentary is a wonderful profile of the Vatican, its history, art, life, and day-to-day workings.  This small city state, located just a stone’s throw from Rome, has a rich history full of religious tradition, yet it must still exist in the modern world.

The documentary originally aired on PBS in a 14-part series.  Following its broadcast, the episodes were collected into a DVD set, and a bonus disc was added.

Here’s a breakdown of what’s covered on each of the discs, along with my thoughts:

Disc 1:  Here is Peter, The Conclave of Cardinals, A Little State in the Shadow of the Church, and Divisions of His Holiness.

I wanted to like this disc a lot.  But I didn’t it.  With all sorts of historical information, this should have bee fascinating, but I found the narrative unnecessarily dry, and in some places downright boring.  It does, however, set the stage for what’s to come.

Disc 2:  St. Peter’s Basilica, Papal Operations and Workers, and The Pope’s Transportation.

Things start to pick up with this disc.  Here we learn about the history, architecture, and art of St. Peter’s Basilica.  It fascinating stuff!   Papal Operations covered a lot of the day-to-day stuff of what it takes to keep the Vatican running, and a little background about the people who make it happen.  It was surprising to learn that the Vatican has its own farm and dairy.  The Pope’s Transportation covered some of the old coaches through history, including antique automobiles, the Papal chair, right on up to the Pope-mobile.  The Pope has vanity license plates — SCV1.  Some of the vehicles that you see in this segment are on display at the Vatican Museum.

Disc 3:  Papal Antiques, The Papal Gardens, Vatican Residents, and Art Hospital.

There’s  lots of art and a fair number of antiques in the Vatican, and a stroll through the Vatican Museum will only show you a part of them.  This disc give you a bit more background about the pieces in the collection, along with how they are cared for.  You may be able to catch a glimpse of the Vatican garden from the Museum, but you’ll get a full tour on this disc.  These gardens have been in place for over 800 years, and you’ll learn about what was in the gardens, how it was maintained, and how it provided a respite for the Pontiff.  Also, it’s easy to think of the Vatican as the Pope’s home, and it is.  However, there are a great many people in residence there.  Some of those residents include the Swiss Guards, and you’ll get to watch an interview with the wife of one of the Guards.  It was incredible interesting to learn about what’s involved in being a Guard as well as all that the job entails.

Disc 4:  St Peter’s Media, Passing by of Time and the Present, and Sistine Chapel.

This disc will give you a fascinating look at a side of the Vatican that you may not think of — the Press Office of the Holy See.  This is where some serious PR strategies are shaped, and if you’ve been following current events, you know that this has been a difficult job of late.  This disc also provided a look at the evolution of the Vatican, and traced some history and policies up to current time.  While much has remained the same,  deeply mired in tradition, religious and otherwise, it is still a city/state that has to face modern challenges much like the rest of the world.  The segment on the Sistine Chapel is amazing piece.  Whether you’ve seen it or not, you’ll appreciate this explanation of what’s there and how it came to be.

If you’re planning a visit to the Vatican, I’d recommend viewing the DVD set before going.  It provides a history and framework of what you’ll see, and some of the bits of information and trivia will give you a richer experience and understanding when you visit.  I’d then recommend watching it again upon your return.  This second viewing will fill in some of the gaps between the first viewing and your visit, and I’ll bet there will be a few “aha” moments, as you remember some things that you saw on your visit.

Disc 5:  Highlights

This is the bonus disc, and while you could watch it first or last, I’d recommend watching it first.  It provides a nice overview and explanation of what’s in store.

The Secrets of the Vatican Collection is available from Amazon for $35.99.  It’s a good personal purchase, and would also make a great gift if you know someone who has a Rome vacation planned.

Note:  I received a complimentary copy of the DVD set from Detroit Public Television for purposes of review.

Photo credit:  Amazon

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The Coliseum in Rome is the largest remaining monument of Imperial Rome, and is the top landmark in a city that’s full of landmarks.

Built between AD 72-80, the Coliseum was originally called the Flavian Amphitheater and was the center of the city of Rome.  It was the first and the largest (it covers about six acres) permanent amphitheater built in the Roman Empire.

The exterior of the building consisted of four floors – three tiers of arches and an attic. On top of the attic was a series of brackets and sockets that allowed a shade to be pulled over the arena for sun protection, and a canopy that could be pulled over to protect guests from the rain.  It was a fairly complex system that may have served as the forerunner to the retractable roof that many stadium and arenas have today.

Anyone who has seen Russell Crowe in the movie Gladiator, has a pretty good idea of how the Coliseum operated.

80 doorways led into the interior arena area, with tiers of marble benches for spectators.  Seating was arranged by rank, with the emperor and noblemen at the front, and working men and women at the rear.  It was an efficient seating plan that allowed for the smooth arrival and departure of nearly 50,000 spectators.

Originally, the arena floor was wooden with sand over it.  There were various trapdoors that opened up to let lions and other ferocious beast enter the arena.  (You can still see the outline of many of those trapdoors today.)  There was also a fairly advanced underground aqueduct system that allowed the floor to be flooded for water battles.  This arena is where the gladiator battles and other public spectacles took place – the ultimate battle between the lions and Christians.  Many of both died in the games.

In the middle ages, the Coliseum was used as a fortress and a quarry, but in 1749 Pope Benedict XIV declared it a sacred site because early Christians had been martyred there.  Stations of the Cross were installed and it became a holy structure, although one that was allowed to fall into disrepair.

During the 19th century conservation of the Coliseum began, and its ties to the Catholic Church were renewed.  In recent years, the Coliseum has become a symbol of the international campaign against the death penalty, and the night illumination changes from white to gold whenever a death sentences is commuted, the prisoner released, or if a jurisdiction abolishes the death penalty.  For example, in December 2007 it was lit in gold when New Jersey abolished the death penalty.

Although the interior of the Coliseum is in ruins, you can still see several of the marble benches from the early days.  It is used for an occasional event (a few hundred spectators can be accommodated in temporary seating), and larger events like concerts have been held outside the arena on the grounds.  Paul McCartney and Elton John both had concerts on the amphitheater grounds.  Each year on Good Friday, the Pope leads a torch lit procession for the Stations of the Cross.

The exterior grounds of the Coliseum can be wandered at no charge.  Look out for the young men dressed up like gladiators who’ll stand with you for a photo.  There’s a fee involved.   You can walked around the entire perimeter, enjoy the grounds,  marvel at the architecture, and soak up the feel of history.

Admission is charged to get inside, although EU citizens, students, and seniors have a reduced rate.  Timed tickets are available in advance or you can buy them at the Palatine.  The lines are generally shorter at the Palatine than at the Coliseum itself, and the ticket covers admission to both sites.  An audio tour is available for an additional charge.

Of all the wonderful things that I saw in Rome, and there were lots of impressive sights, the Coliseum was the highlight.  It was my first glimpse of the city as I came up from the train station.  I stood for a minute clearing my head and getting my bearings, and then I looked up.  There was the Coliseum directly in front of me.  I stood there, across the street from history, and it simply took my breath away.

Photo credits:  all from personal collection

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World in Focus – Travel photography contest open to professionals and amateurs.  Maybe you could win that grand prize – a 10 day safari in Tanzania.

AAA Travel Views – I found myself nodding in agreement as the author explained that he wasn’t a typical Branson visitor, but he made an exception for Paul Revere & the Raiders.  Since they were a band from my teen years, I can relate.

Intelligent Travel – It’s winter down under, and Vivid Sydney is a cultural extravaganza designed to turn the city into a canvas of light and sound.

The Amsterdam Guide – When’s the best time to visit Amsterdam?  Any time!  And here’s why.

Blisstree – Coq au Vin is a classic French dish that many people fall in love with when they have it in Paris.  Here’s how you can recreate it at home – and it’s not that difficult.

My Melange – A tantalizing review of Tazza d’Oro in Rome reminds me that it’s only 18 days till I leave for Italy.

The New York City Traveler – A tour New York’s famous Zabar’s, a great spot to pick up treats for a picnic.  I haven’t been there for quite some time, but this took me back.

Traveling Mamas – Exploring a city that I’ve not been to — Sedona, Arizona.  Lots of great suggestions on how to enjoy the beautiful outdoors of this area.

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Location:  A vacant hallway at the Vatican.  The artwork on the ceiling was as intricate and detailed as that on the walls.  And the floor was so shiny that it might as well have been a mirror.

Image credit:  Personal collection

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I’m bringing you another photo from my trip to Italy, this one of Saint Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican.

I’m in Tuscany now, and hope to share some additional photos from my week here at a farmhouse.

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Rome has been wonderful so far, and I regret that my time here was so short.  Everywhere you turn there is such a sense of history and wonder. 

My first real impression of the city was coming up from the subway (Colosseo stop) and finding this in front of you.  It literally took my breath away!  Seeing it in books and photos cannot do justice to the sense of awe I felt at seeing this piece of the beginning of civilization.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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I’m headed off to Italy for a couple weeks!

I’m traveling with some good friends, and am looking forward to seeing various part of that wonderful country.  Art, culture, music. . . and, let’s face, it the great food and wine doesn’t hurt either.

You’ll still have lots of posts here at Flyaway Cafe, some I’ve done before leaving, some I’ll do on the road, and I’ll also have some guest posts from some of my travel blogging friends.  There will be lots to keep you entertained, so just because I’m gone, doesn’t mean you should be too!

To celebrate my first stop in Italy, here’s a video clip from the movie Roman Holiday, starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. 

I won’t be driving in Rome, not even on a Vespa, but do hope to take in some of the sights seen in the video.

What are your favorite things to do or see in Rome?  Any must-see attractions?  What’s under and over rated?  Leave some ideas in the comments and help me narrow down all the things that I’d like to do.

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