For most people, a trip to Rome is going to include a trip to Vatican City, and a stop to see the Vatican Museum, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s (Square and Basilica).  It may seem like an easy stop on your travels, but it can be daunting.  A little research and advance planning can help you get the most out of the time you have.

One of the best references that I found, both for its breadth and depth of knowledge as well as its entertainment value, is Secrets of the Vatican Collection, the first ever complete documentary on the Vatican.

The 5-disc DVD documentary is a wonderful profile of the Vatican, its history, art, life, and day-to-day workings.  This small city state, located just a stone’s throw from Rome, has a rich history full of religious tradition, yet it must still exist in the modern world.

The documentary originally aired on PBS in a 14-part series.  Following its broadcast, the episodes were collected into a DVD set, and a bonus disc was added.

Here’s a breakdown of what’s covered on each of the discs, along with my thoughts:

Disc 1:  Here is Peter, The Conclave of Cardinals, A Little State in the Shadow of the Church, and Divisions of His Holiness.

I wanted to like this disc a lot.  But I didn’t it.  With all sorts of historical information, this should have bee fascinating, but I found the narrative unnecessarily dry, and in some places downright boring.  It does, however, set the stage for what’s to come.

Disc 2:  St. Peter’s Basilica, Papal Operations and Workers, and The Pope’s Transportation.

Things start to pick up with this disc.  Here we learn about the history, architecture, and art of St. Peter’s Basilica.  It fascinating stuff!   Papal Operations covered a lot of the day-to-day stuff of what it takes to keep the Vatican running, and a little background about the people who make it happen.  It was surprising to learn that the Vatican has its own farm and dairy.  The Pope’s Transportation covered some of the old coaches through history, including antique automobiles, the Papal chair, right on up to the Pope-mobile.  The Pope has vanity license plates — SCV1.  Some of the vehicles that you see in this segment are on display at the Vatican Museum.

Disc 3:  Papal Antiques, The Papal Gardens, Vatican Residents, and Art Hospital.

There’s  lots of art and a fair number of antiques in the Vatican, and a stroll through the Vatican Museum will only show you a part of them.  This disc give you a bit more background about the pieces in the collection, along with how they are cared for.  You may be able to catch a glimpse of the Vatican garden from the Museum, but you’ll get a full tour on this disc.  These gardens have been in place for over 800 years, and you’ll learn about what was in the gardens, how it was maintained, and how it provided a respite for the Pontiff.  Also, it’s easy to think of the Vatican as the Pope’s home, and it is.  However, there are a great many people in residence there.  Some of those residents include the Swiss Guards, and you’ll get to watch an interview with the wife of one of the Guards.  It was incredible interesting to learn about what’s involved in being a Guard as well as all that the job entails.

Disc 4:  St Peter’s Media, Passing by of Time and the Present, and Sistine Chapel.

This disc will give you a fascinating look at a side of the Vatican that you may not think of — the Press Office of the Holy See.  This is where some serious PR strategies are shaped, and if you’ve been following current events, you know that this has been a difficult job of late.  This disc also provided a look at the evolution of the Vatican, and traced some history and policies up to current time.  While much has remained the same,  deeply mired in tradition, religious and otherwise, it is still a city/state that has to face modern challenges much like the rest of the world.  The segment on the Sistine Chapel is amazing piece.  Whether you’ve seen it or not, you’ll appreciate this explanation of what’s there and how it came to be.

If you’re planning a visit to the Vatican, I’d recommend viewing the DVD set before going.  It provides a history and framework of what you’ll see, and some of the bits of information and trivia will give you a richer experience and understanding when you visit.  I’d then recommend watching it again upon your return.  This second viewing will fill in some of the gaps between the first viewing and your visit, and I’ll bet there will be a few “aha” moments, as you remember some things that you saw on your visit.

Disc 5:  Highlights

This is the bonus disc, and while you could watch it first or last, I’d recommend watching it first.  It provides a nice overview and explanation of what’s in store.

The Secrets of the Vatican Collection is available from Amazon for $35.99.  It’s a good personal purchase, and would also make a great gift if you know someone who has a Rome vacation planned.

Note:  I received a complimentary copy of the DVD set from Detroit Public Television for purposes of review.

Photo credit:  Amazon

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The Coliseum in Rome is the largest remaining monument of Imperial Rome, and is the top landmark in a city that’s full of landmarks.

Built between AD 72-80, the Coliseum was originally called the Flavian Amphitheater and was the center of the city of Rome.  It was the first and the largest (it covers about six acres) permanent amphitheater built in the Roman Empire.

The exterior of the building consisted of four floors – three tiers of arches and an attic. On top of the attic was a series of brackets and sockets that allowed a shade to be pulled over the arena for sun protection, and a canopy that could be pulled over to protect guests from the rain.  It was a fairly complex system that may have served as the forerunner to the retractable roof that many stadium and arenas have today.

Anyone who has seen Russell Crowe in the movie Gladiator, has a pretty good idea of how the Coliseum operated.

80 doorways led into the interior arena area, with tiers of marble benches for spectators.  Seating was arranged by rank, with the emperor and noblemen at the front, and working men and women at the rear.  It was an efficient seating plan that allowed for the smooth arrival and departure of nearly 50,000 spectators.

Originally, the arena floor was wooden with sand over it.  There were various trapdoors that opened up to let lions and other ferocious beast enter the arena.  (You can still see the outline of many of those trapdoors today.)  There was also a fairly advanced underground aqueduct system that allowed the floor to be flooded for water battles.  This arena is where the gladiator battles and other public spectacles took place – the ultimate battle between the lions and Christians.  Many of both died in the games.

In the middle ages, the Coliseum was used as a fortress and a quarry, but in 1749 Pope Benedict XIV declared it a sacred site because early Christians had been martyred there.  Stations of the Cross were installed and it became a holy structure, although one that was allowed to fall into disrepair.

During the 19th century conservation of the Coliseum began, and its ties to the Catholic Church were renewed.  In recent years, the Coliseum has become a symbol of the international campaign against the death penalty, and the night illumination changes from white to gold whenever a death sentences is commuted, the prisoner released, or if a jurisdiction abolishes the death penalty.  For example, in December 2007 it was lit in gold when New Jersey abolished the death penalty.

Although the interior of the Coliseum is in ruins, you can still see several of the marble benches from the early days.  It is used for an occasional event (a few hundred spectators can be accommodated in temporary seating), and larger events like concerts have been held outside the arena on the grounds.  Paul McCartney and Elton John both had concerts on the amphitheater grounds.  Each year on Good Friday, the Pope leads a torch lit procession for the Stations of the Cross.

The exterior grounds of the Coliseum can be wandered at no charge.  Look out for the young men dressed up like gladiators who’ll stand with you for a photo.  There’s a fee involved.   You can walked around the entire perimeter, enjoy the grounds,  marvel at the architecture, and soak up the feel of history.

Admission is charged to get inside, although EU citizens, students, and seniors have a reduced rate.  Timed tickets are available in advance or you can buy them at the Palatine.  The lines are generally shorter at the Palatine than at the Coliseum itself, and the ticket covers admission to both sites.  An audio tour is available for an additional charge.

Of all the wonderful things that I saw in Rome, and there were lots of impressive sights, the Coliseum was the highlight.  It was my first glimpse of the city as I came up from the train station.  I stood for a minute clearing my head and getting my bearings, and then I looked up.  There was the Coliseum directly in front of me.  I stood there, across the street from history, and it simply took my breath away.

Photo credits:  all from personal collection

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World in Focus – Travel photography contest open to professionals and amateurs.  Maybe you could win that grand prize – a 10 day safari in Tanzania.

AAA Travel Views – I found myself nodding in agreement as the author explained that he wasn’t a typical Branson visitor, but he made an exception for Paul Revere & the Raiders.  Since they were a band from my teen years, I can relate.

Intelligent Travel – It’s winter down under, and Vivid Sydney is a cultural extravaganza designed to turn the city into a canvas of light and sound.

The Amsterdam Guide – When’s the best time to visit Amsterdam?  Any time!  And here’s why.

Blisstree – Coq au Vin is a classic French dish that many people fall in love with when they have it in Paris.  Here’s how you can recreate it at home – and it’s not that difficult.

My Melange – A tantalizing review of Tazza d’Oro in Rome reminds me that it’s only 18 days till I leave for Italy.

The New York City Traveler – A tour New York’s famous Zabar’s, a great spot to pick up treats for a picnic.  I haven’t been there for quite some time, but this took me back.

Traveling Mamas – Exploring a city that I’ve not been to — Sedona, Arizona.  Lots of great suggestions on how to enjoy the beautiful outdoors of this area.

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Location:  A vacant hallway at the Vatican.  The artwork on the ceiling was as intricate and detailed as that on the walls.  And the floor was so shiny that it might as well have been a mirror.

Image credit:  Personal collection

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I’m bringing you another photo from my trip to Italy, this one of Saint Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican.

I’m in Tuscany now, and hope to share some additional photos from my week here at a farmhouse.

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Rome has been wonderful so far, and I regret that my time here was so short.  Everywhere you turn there is such a sense of history and wonder. 

My first real impression of the city was coming up from the subway (Colosseo stop) and finding this in front of you.  It literally took my breath away!  Seeing it in books and photos cannot do justice to the sense of awe I felt at seeing this piece of the beginning of civilization.

Photo credit:  personal collection

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I’m headed off to Italy for a couple weeks!

I’m traveling with some good friends, and am looking forward to seeing various part of that wonderful country.  Art, culture, music. . . and, let’s face, it the great food and wine doesn’t hurt either.

You’ll still have lots of posts here at Flyaway Cafe, some I’ve done before leaving, some I’ll do on the road, and I’ll also have some guest posts from some of my travel blogging friends.  There will be lots to keep you entertained, so just because I’m gone, doesn’t mean you should be too!

To celebrate my first stop in Italy, here’s a video clip from the movie Roman Holiday, starring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn. 

I won’t be driving in Rome, not even on a Vespa, but do hope to take in some of the sights seen in the video.

What are your favorite things to do or see in Rome?  Any must-see attractions?  What’s under and over rated?  Leave some ideas in the comments and help me narrow down all the things that I’d like to do.

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