Changing of the Guard at Presidential Mansion in Athens

Evzoni in front of Athens Presidential MansionEvzoni in front of Athens Presidential MansionEvzoni in front of Athens Presidential MansionEvzoni in front of Athens Presidential Mansion
Evzoni in front of Athens Presidential Mansion

Evzoni in front of Athens Presidential Mansion

The Presidential Mansion is located across the street from Athens’ National Gardens, and I happened upon it at the changing of the guard.

Called the Evzoni, the guard is an elite ceremonial unit drawn from the Greek Army, and members are usually identified early in the military career while in basic training. The Evzoni are responsible for guarding the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Presidential Mansion, and the gates of the guard’s camp.

The Evzoni are easily reconized by, and are a bit famous for, their traditional uniform which dates back to the Ottoman occupation of Greece. the everyday uniforn is a Farion (a scarlet fex with a black tassel), Doulamas (a naay blue tunic), and Periskelides (white woolen stockings, two pair are worn) with Anapastos (a type of garter to hold the stockings in place). The shoes they wore we fascinating. Called Tsarouchia, they are basical a red leather clogs with giant black pompoms on the top. The soles are studded with nails, facilitating the noisy sound made with each step.  They weigh nearly eight pounds, which makes some of the marching maneuvers pretty darned impressive.  There is fancier and more elaborate dress uniform worn for parades and ceremonial events.

marching evzoni

The guards serve in one-hour shifts, and tradition and discipline dictates that they are completely motionless unless performing official duties. The two Evzoni guarding the Palace change locations every 15 minutes, with a complete change in personnel every hour. Official movements, including the changing of the guard protocol, is highly stylized with slow and dramatically choreagraphed movements. Another officer, in a standard uniform, stands nearby to ensure that no one harrasses the guards.

The Evzoni take their duties and traditions seriously. In 2001, a Molotov cocktail was thrown at the guardhouse and the guard on duty didn’t move until ordered to do so by the officer in the standard uniform, despite the guardhouse being engulfed in flame. On another occasion, the Evzoni refused to move from their post guarding the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier even though a bomb wnet off some 65 feet from where they were standing. Motionless.

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Mary Jo Manzanares is a traveler, travel blogger, and podcaster. In addition to her blog, Traveling with MJ, she hosts the Where Else to Go podcast, and is the founder and the editor-in-chief of The Traveler’s Way, an online travel magazine. Her travel ethos is value luxury – luxury for real people – and her goal is to help travelers know when to splurge and when to save. Mary Jo has been a speaker at various industry events around the world.

When she’s not traveling, Mary Jo likes lingering over a cup of coffee, wandering in a museum, sipping wine at a cafe, and sharing it all with friends and readers. Her most recent travels were to Stockholm, a Baltic cruise, and Universal Orlando Resort.

2 Responses to “Changing of the Guard at Presidential Mansion in Athens”

  1. October 29, 2014 at 4:30 am #

    Good to read this post and very well shot images, being there would have been a treat to see changing to gaurds.

    • November 3, 2014 at 11:34 am #

      It was a treat, and one that we just happened upon. Sometimes taking a wrong turn delivers wonderful results.

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